Hot Cross Buns

Hot Cross Buns have been associated with Easter for centuries. They actually predate Christianity and go back all the way to ancient Egypt. According to the article Hot Cross Buns by Mitch Stamm and Karen Goodpaster, which appeared in a publication put out by The Bread Baker’s Guild, people at the time of the Pharaohs made small round breads topped with crosses to celebrate the gods.

The goddess Eostre/Ostara flies through the heavens. “Ostara” (1901) by Johannes Gehrts. From Wikimedia Commons

Greeks and Romans made a similar sweetened roll as a tribute to Eostre, the Goddess of Light. The word “Easter” is derived from her name. Early Christians celebrated the resurrection of Christ at the same time of year as the pagan Spring celebration in order to avoid detection by the Roman authorities. It was natural that the sweet rolls in honor of Eostre would be adapted to the Christian Easter celebration.

To the Egyptians, the cross symbolically divided the bun to represent the four phases of the moon or the four seasons. To Christians, it represented Jesus on the Cross. Spices used in the dough came to represent the spices used to embalm Jesus after crucifixion. The inclusion of orange or lemon peel reflected the bitterness of his time on the Cross.

I’ve chosen to leave spices out of the dough because I think the flavors get in the way more than they enhance. I tried the Paul Hollywood method of making the cross with a flour and water paste, but found the result to be a little leathery so I use an icing instead.

Yield: 12 Hot Cross Buns

Ingredients:

  • 450 grams (3 ¾ cups) Bread Flour
  • 66 grams (⅓ cup) Sugar
  • 28 grams (4 tbsp.) Dry Milk Powder
  • 4 tsp. (2 packets) Active Dry Yeast ***
  • 2 tsp. Salt
  • 2 large Eggs
  • 50 grams (¼ cup) Vegetable Oil
  • 170 grams (¾ cup) Warm Water
  • 55 grams (⅓ cup) Raisins
  • 63 grams (⅓ cup) Dried Apricots, diced
  • 20 grams (4 tsp.) Preserved Lemon, rinsed and diced (zest from 1 Lemon as substitute)
  • 1-2 tbsp. Butter, melted for brushing

*** SAF Gold Instant Yeast is highly recommended, if available, since this is such a dense and sweet dough.

Icing for the Cross
  • 57 grams (½ cup) Confectioners Sugar
  • ½ tbsp. Water
  • ½ tsp. Vanilla Extract

Directions:

Step 1: Combine flour, sugar, milk powder, yeast and salt. Add eggs, oil and warm water, mix and knead for about 8-10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl coated with vegetable oil, add the raisins, dried apricots and lemon. Use your fingers to poke the fruits throughout the dough until they’ve been evenly distributed.

Raisins, Apricots and Preserved Lemon

Cover and let rise until approximately doubled in size. This may take several hours since this is such a dense dough.

Dough after rising

Step 2: After the dough has risen, knead it for a second time. Weigh out 85 gram (3 oz.) portions and work with the hands to form a cohesive ball. Cup the bun in the palms of the hands and shape into a smooth ball. Place on a sheet tray covered with parchment paper or silicone mat. After all the buns are formed, allow to rise for an hour. Spritzing a little water on with a spray bottle occasionally helps to keep them from drying out.

Bun after rising an hour

Step 3: Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake for 15-18 minutes, rotating the tray half-way through to ensure even baking. Brush with melted butter and allow to cool thoroughly.

Step 4: Mix together the ingredients for the icing and stir until smooth. Use a piping bag or a zip lock bag with a tiny corner of the bag snipped off to pipe an “x” shape across each bun.

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